Posted by Witch Doctor on March 17, 2001 at 22:54:45:
I hope these help to clear up some confusion that naturally forms when someone decides to try motorcycle cutomizing for the first time.
1) Take it slow. If you find a problem, research what needs to be done to correct it while it is still small. It is better to quit while you are ahead, think it out, and try another approach if something isn't quite "gelling" the way you feel it should.
2) Paint finishing: When your primer layers are done, use a copper scrub pad or green scotch brite pad to knock off the dust. Blow it off with clean, dry compressed air (preferably the canned variety for cleaning computer parts). After each color layer has 12-24 hours of flash time( and the layer means three passes of the gun after proper solvent time), color wet sand with 400 or 600 grit paper. Keep the paper wet! After the final clear coat is applied, it is recommended that you leave it alone. Lacquer paints can be buffed out by hand after 30 days, any other type, if you aren't happy with it, wet sand with 600 grit and spray another layer. Don't try to buff out urethanes, you're far more likely to burn up a buffer than get them glass smooth. If you use non-urethane enamels, feel free to bake the part at low heat (electric oven only) until the paint flows out like glass. At that point, shut off the heat and don't disturb for 2 days. DO NOT bake lacquers, ever, they tend to explode due the nature of lacquer thinner.
3) Metal polishing: if possible, do it by hand. Sand the piece with successively finer grits of wet paper after working down from 120 through 320 grit dry papers. Once the part is smooth to the touch (close your eyes, your fingers will be more sensitive), you can machine polish with white rouge or extremely carefully with valve lapping compound. The meatal will never look like chrome, which is fine, as different alloys working in concert can be even nicer looking than all chrome.
4) Leather pieces: saddle soap and neatsfoot oil are your best friends. Keep the pieces clean and well oiled to prevent cracking and dry rotting. The oil can be followed with beeswax (Sno-seal brand or equivalent) and buffed to a very high shine with a new cotton diaper.
5) Vinyl pieces: Use the best boat or RV products you can afford. STP Son of a Gun and Armorall are okay, but can in fact contribute to material degradation. My preference is 333 RV cleaner/polish. Works well, fairly inexpensive, and is UVA/UVB stabilized. Don't use it where your butt rests on the seat though, unless you like sliding off of the bike.
6) Rubber pieces: see vinyl pieces.
7) Windshield care: Lexan-use what the manufacturer recommends. Polycarbonate: Plexus or motorcycle shop house brand equivalent. Never use windex on a plastic windshield or faceplate. It can eat it.
8) Brake dust removal: use products from Blue Coral, Mothers, Meguiars, or VHT designed for this purpose. They are the least likely to damage to finished surfaces you will be spraying them on. If they don't do the trick, use easy-off oven cleaner and prepare to paint your rims, spokes, axles, frame, forks, and etc. It WILL ruin the factory finishes with its ability to etch just about anything out there, including several grades of stainless steel.
9) Whole bike cleaning: do not use dish soap to wash you bike. It damages the chemical makeup of most paints. Use S100 or equivalent spray on, hose off bike wash product or automobile washing soap and a soft cloth. Follow up with a good carnauba wax. Don't use paint sealers or parafin based waxes, they also can chemically damage the paint. Apply a super heavy layer of wax to the front of the frame and gas tank before longer rides, as it will help protect against road debris/bugs/mud/sand/water damages to the paint.
10) Frame protection: Hammerite spray paint, Delthane, Deltron, Imron (if you can still find it) acrylic polyurethane paint finishes in the color of your choice. These are all chip resistant. Nothing else will hold up as well.
11) Frame modifications: have all work done by a welder who is air frame certified. All tubing welds need to have solid plug put inside them for extra strength, all flat welds like changing the steering head angle need to be triple gusseted. The frame takes some serious abuse in normal operation, and if you are unfamiliar with heavy duty welding techniques, don't use your frame to learn on. Pay someone to teach you using scrap materials if you absolutely have to do the work yourself, and have it checked afterwards by a professonal. A frame is not the right place to try and cut some corners cost-wise.
If you run into serious problems, take the work to a pro, be it painting, bodywork, welding, whatever. There are some of us here who don't mind walking neophyte builders through the process, but our online instructions are no substitute for hands on assistance. Remember, even people like Arlen Ness, Jesse James, Ron Simms, Dave Perowitz, and other professional high dollar builders didn't get that way overnight. I've seen some of their earlier pieces, and they were no better than any other beginners. If all else fails, find a vocational school in your area and take some paint and body classes. Who knows, it may lead you to the niche that was designed just for you.
Good luck and happy choppping.
-WD